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Central America: Guatemala


Map of the Guatemala
 
Current Crop Comments:

New crop is due in April, and my recent cupping trip to Guatemala yielded some new finds. Finca Agua Tibia is immanent and a new pure Bourbon lot from La Florencia is here. We still have some of the excellent pure Bourbon from San Vicente in Huehuetenango and the Yellow Bourbon from Retana in Antigua, two fine lots. Guatemala has such a range of regions, it is hard to talk in good year/bad year terms. There are too many micro regions, and a weather problem in one is inconsequential in another. That said, I demand a lot from Guatemalan coffees and am always asking myself "is there something better out there?" That question might be answered this year with the grand re-opening of the Guatemala Cup of Excellence after a 4 year hiatus. I will cup them all, and will be in there for the bidding, although I suspect prices are going to soar.

Guatemalan coffee is revered as one of the most flavorful and nuanced cups in the world. Due to our proximity to Guatemala, some of the finest coffees from this origin come to the United States. Guatemalan growing regions vary in their potential cup quality: many have sufficient altitude, soil and climate conditions. Antiguas are well-known and highly rated. Huehuetenango from the north highland can be exceptional and have distinct fruit flavors. Coban, Fraijanes and Quiche can be nice, but they need to be cupped carefully: they can have a nice cup but sometimes less complexity and depth. Atitlan has produced some very fine coffees in the past few years. But remember, you can't count on any origin to necessarily produce a great coffee: the quality cup is still hard to find among even the most celebrated and recognized regions ...in this case Antigua.

Politics in Guatemala have often interfered with the quality of Guatemalan coffee, and more importantly the shared success of the coffee farmer great and small. Unfortunately, if you read the history books, our nation has played a great role in the state-sponsored violence*. In general, remember this: Specialty coffee purchases from co-ops, smaller farms or single-owner estates (that is, all the coffee we offer). To support the "coffee elite" you buy lower-grade, low-grown cheap coffee produced and sold in huge volumes through the giant exporters. In general, buying Specialty coffee sold from small lots and established farms and co-ops means you are supporting farms and workers in a fairly direct way. Guatemala imposes a minimum wage for coffee-pickers, and it is paid on established farms and co-ops, but with the low-grown no-name coffees, who knows?

It's a bit dated, but here is a travelogue I did for a trip to northern Guatemala. More recently, my notes and pictures from the 2006 Guatemala Cup of Excellence competition are uploaded and 2 trips from early 2008, linked from our Coffee Library page.- Tom

* For more info...


Beautiful, well-fertilized:
Super shiny coffee Finca Rabanales in Fraijanes region, 2006


A stream through Finca El Injerto, Huehuetenango

Cup of Coffee? Yes, of a sort. Reproducing coffee from plant material, not seeds, at the Anacafe research lab. No, this isn't genetic "franken-coffee," just a reliable way they are experimenting with hybrids.

Our Guatemalan Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.


Guatemala Finca La Florencia 100% Bourbon
Country: Guatemala Grade: SHB Region: Fraijanes Mark: Finca La Florencia
Processing: Wet-Process Crop: Late April 2008 Arrival Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen Varietal: 100% Bourbon
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.5 Notes: La Florencia is in the Fraijanes region, in sight of the capital Guatemala City. Much of Fraijanes is becoming suburbs of the capital, and coffee farms are becoming subdivided for housing. Still, the coffee tradition runs deep here, and some farms grow, harvest and mill their coffee as their grandparents (and oftentimes as the grandparent's grandparents) did long ago. Finca La Florencia features pure Bourbon seedstock, they tyep that originated on the island of Bourbon (now Reunion), named for the royal family of France at the time. It's an ideal coffee for high altitude cultivation, and results in dense physical structure of the coffee seed. This is great for roasting, as it promotes even heat transfer, and less damage to the bean structure. Bourbon coffees tend to have a "classic" Central American cup profile, balanced, very balanced, dense body, proportional bright notes, sweetness. La Florencia delivers all those things. The dry fragrance at City + roast (coffee has a wrinked surface texture still, with dark creases) is hazelnuts and cocoa all over. With a little more roast, it reminds me of chocolate wafer cookies! In the wet aromatics, the sweetness is amplified, and muted fruits are present behind layers of chocolate. This cup has such a classic, balanced character, I can see myself enjoying it without much thought except "wow, that's a nice coffee!" It's definitely a crowd-pleaser and does well under a very wide range of roasts. Green apple and mild citrus brightness is nested in almond-hazelnut-chocolate roast tones. The body is dense, thick. As it cools, the brightness is more apparent and the cup seems more dimensional. The finish has aromatic wood hints, traces of walnut. It's a solid cup, and the Bourbon character is fully expressed in it.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.5
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.6
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.7
Body - Movement (1-5) 3.8
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.7
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0.5 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity/Bourbon-character, balance, dense body  coffee flavor analysis
add 50 50 Roast: City+ to Full City is recommended, but the fact is this coffee takes a wide range of roasts and performs well nomatter what -
Score (Max. 100) 87.3 Compare to: Has some similarities to the highest grown Bourbon coffees of El Salvador, but has a bit more sweetness.

Guatemala
Finca La Florencia 100% Bourbon
$5.15add to cart
$9.79add to cart
$22.40add to cart
$42.75add to cart
$79.31add to cart

Guatemala Huehuetenango - Finca San Vicente
Country: Guatemala Grade: SHB Region: La Libertad, Huehuetenango Mark: Finca San Vicente
Processing: Wet-Process Crop: 07 crop, January 2008 Arrival Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: 100% Bourbon Varietal
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.5 Notes: San Vicente estate is located in the Cuchumatanes mountain range of Huehuetenango, in a microclimate near La Libertad. The farm is quite small by "estate" standards; 100 Hectares of coffee and 50 Hectares of forest preserve, at 1300 to 1600 meters in altitude. The microregion has some special climactic conditions with higher humidity than other coffee regions in Huehuetenango. The area is topographically rugged, very steep, has clay soils. Other factors that influence the cup are the cultivar: while the farm has Catuai and Caturra cultivars, this lot is exclusively the traditional Bourbon varietal, and is from the higher altitudes on the farm. The result is a very hard bean coffee, physically dense, from slower/later-maturing trees. All this is great pedigree for cup quality. You can observe the density of the coffee by checking the amount the "crease" in the coffee opens during roasting, and ancillary cracks that come off of it. A more open crease with offshooting cracks means softer, lower-grown coffees. Compare a San Vicente seed to an origin that has lower altitudes, like Brazil, or an Island coffee... interesting! Now, add to the density and altitude a special preparation ... and you get a nice cup. We bought this lot at late harvest and saved it for January, at a time when new crop Guatemalas are months away, and a good "hard bean" coffee like this holds it's character like the day it arrived. It is a very clean cup, sharply aromatic, and a cup profile that (more than any other coffee I can recall) tastes like the cultivar - like Bourbon coffee. (BTW, this is pronounced bur-bone for the island off Africa, not like the alcohol). It's what people in coffee called "good transparency" and in wine they talk about "terroir" - tasting the soil, the varietal, the beverage as a pure result of the place it came from. The grounds are caramel-vanilla in sweetness, without fruitiness; crisp and chocolatey at FC roast. The cup has true Bourbon character, classic Guatemala balance, well defined and creamy milk chocolate, zesty brightness with just a bit of lemon acidity, chocolate bisquit and a very cleanly disappearing finish.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.5
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.6
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.8
Body - Movement (1-5) 3.4
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.8
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 1 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity/Extremely clean, balanced, "Bourbon" character  
add 50 50 Roast: City + to Full City. This very dense Bourbon seed keeps it's compact form in the roast.
Score (Max. 100) 87.6 Compare to: Truly a classic Guatemala cup profile; very traditional.

Guatemala
Huehuetenango -Finca San Vicente
$5.30add to cart $10.07add to cart Low Stock    

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