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Central America: El Salvador


Map of the El Salvador


Unripe green coffee cherry,
Pacas cultivar, El Salvador 2004.

Current Crop Comments:

I am a believer: El Salvador has great coffee. Bourbon varietal coffees are one end of the spectrum, balanced, classic "Central" profile; Pacamara varietal coffees are their opposite, quirky and full of character. High altitudes and good, dense, traditional varietals are a large part of it. We offered the coop Adelaida coffee early in the season, with our special high altitude Juan Francisco project coming in September and the CoE lots after that. Both our CoE lots are Pacamara coffees, the number 2 lot from Los Planes scoring more than 93 points in the competition! Early '07 crop marks the arrival of an excellent pure Bourbon pulp natural lot - San Emilio.



Ripe red coffee cherry in the receiving bin at the Jasal mill.

El Salvador coffee had an undeservingly poor reputation for years, marred mostly by the inability to deliver coffee of high quality in an unstable political climate. Unfortunately, agriculture is the first to suffer in revolution, since it requires years to rebuild a farm if it is neglected. In El Salvador the coffee trade, like the government in general, was controlled by a ruling elite ... a handful of wealthy families that operated many farms. El Salvador had tended towards the right politically, and the smaller coffee farmer and coffee workers fared poorly in this climate.

But the democratic movements and decades of civil war have changed many things. It shows in the quality of coffee, and the availibility of small lots from exceptional small-scale farms. Instead of low grade commercial blending coffees, we now see an eruption of farm-specific regional offerings from small co-ops or estates. El Salvador always had the right ingredients ---soil, altitude, climate ---to produce coffee on par with Guatemala. Most of all, it has the cultivars; Bourbon, the classic old-world coffee; Pacamara, the full-character, odd-ball varietal.

For the past 7 years I have been able to buy incredible Salvadors --drop dead quality, great acidity, refinement and depth. Last year it was the incredible Organic Los Naranjos. Then we had the Santa Ritas and Salaverrias. Good stuff. Then the real bombshell coffee: the Cup of Excellence lot from the San Francisco farm. After that, our Organic Santa Adelaida lots, and our Pacamara Cup of Excellence coffees. This truly represents the pinnacle of high grown Salvadors. This year we offer 3 lots from the Cup of Excellence Auctions! If you like, you can read about our trip there, and Tom's role as a judge in the competition. More recent information is located in my January 2006 travelogue.


Finca San Jose, Sonsonate, El Salvador

Sunset over the volcanos, 2006


Ripe coffee cherry on the tree at El Molino de Santa Rita farm.


City+ roast examples of Bourbon El Salvador coffees.
(click on thumbnails for larger images)


View from the mill at Santa Adelaida, an organic cooperative we buy from ...

Our Salvadoran Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.


El Salvador Matalapa Estate Peaberry
Country: El Salvador Grade: SHB/EP Peaberry Region: Matalapa, La Libertad Mark: 100% Bourbon Matalapa Estate SHG/EP Peaberry
Processing: Wet-process Crop: Late June 2008 Arrival Appearance: .0 d/300gr, 16 PB Screen Varietal: 100% Bourbon PEABERRY
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.6 Notes: Here's the scoop on Bourbon coffees (pronounced Burr-Bone). Bourbon coffee is a classic cultivar, named for the island of Bourbon (now called Reunion) where it was originally cultivated. When we call it classic, we mean not just the fact that it is a lower-yeild, heirloom plant, and that it has a very dense seed that roasts well, but also the cup character. Bourbon coffees, especially those from El Salvador, are neotypical Central American coffees. They are bright, aromatic, balanced, semisweet or bittersweet, chocolate and have a creamy mouthfeel. In a competition like Cup of Excellence, these characteristics might seem mundane next to the exotic flavors of the Pacamara cultivar, but Bourbon should be appreciate for more than it's sturdiness, versatility (they make great espresso blend components), and the way they take a wide range of roasts. Each has unique accent notes too. We had a flat bean lot earlier this season, and with that same coffee the Intelligentsia barista won the US Barista Competition. Clearly, this has more uses than just drip brewing. It's not an extremely high acid Salvador, perhaps because of the 1200 meter elevation of Matalapa. It's a 4th generation coffee estate owned by Vickie Ann Dalton de Diaz. It totals 120 hectrares and was founded in the late 1800's by Fidelia Lima, great grandmother of the Vickie. She maintains 14 acres of virgin tropical forest and keeps her coffee plants shaded with over forty varieties of larger trees. The cup has the character I aspire to find in El Salvador Bourbon coffees, great balance and sweet accent notes. This peaberry exclusive (we bought it all) arrived with a great cup! The dry fragrance has sweet nuts, almost like praline and some soft floral notes. The cup is very approachable, and you can seek out some sweet, mild citrus in the wet aroma, with malt sweetness (C+ roast). The cup has a buttery body, laced with floral and citrus accents. As it cools my lighter roasts (City+) became more and more bright and dynamic. I preferred this roast level, the finish is flawless, high-toned and sweet. But this coffee works with a huge range of roasts and FC+ or darker produce a great bittersweet, full-bodied cup (ideal as part of an espresso blend or as French Press type coffee).
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.6
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.6
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.7
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 4
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.6
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 1 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Balanced, dense mouthfeel  
add 50 50 Roast: City+ to FC+ to Vienna - see notes above
Score (Max. 100) 88.2 Compare to: Classic peaberry Bourbon coffee with orange and cinnamon highlights. Great espresso potential too; a competition-winning espresso and #10 in the 2008 El Salvador Cup of Excellence.

El Salvador
Matalapa Estate Peaberry
$5.35add to cart $10.17add to cart $23.27add to cart Small Lot - Limit 5 Lbs  

El Salvador Santa Rita Full Natural
Country: El Salvador Grade: SHB Region: Santa Rita Mark: El Molino de Santa Rita
Processing: Dry-process (Aka, Natural) Crop: August 2008 Arrival Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Bourbon
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.6 Notes: This lot is an odd mix of non-traditional processing and old-world cultivar. Bourbon coffee is a classic cultivar, named for the island of Bourbon (now called Reunion) where it was originally cultivated. When we call it classic, we mean not just the fact that it is a lower-yield, heirloom plant, and that it has a very dense seed that roasts well, but also the cup character. But here is something very UN-traditional. This is a full natural coffee ... another way of saying "dry-processed." We had this lot prepared just for us: a Bourbon coffee has been dry processed, as done in Ethiopia and Brazil. Whole coffee cherry is picked from the tree and immediately dried, without peeling the skin, fermentation of the fruity mucilage, as they do in traditional Central America wet-processing. When you sun-dry coffee fruit right off the tree, all the skin and fruit of the coffee is intact, and it dries like a raisin. The mucilage turns to a sweet, chewy, dehydrated form, encoating the green seed protected by its parchment layer. Once fully dried, it is left to rest for some days, then in one step the skin, dried fruit flesh, parchment layer and all are torn from the green seed. The result is something between an Ethiopia coffee and a Central coffee, quite strange but, in this case, quite excellent. The result is lower acidity, tons of body, and a very different flavor profile than any other El Salvador coffee. It's also unlike other dry-processed coffees because it still has brightness that others lack. In the light roasts, it has increased body and chocolate roast notes, with good "coffee cherry fruit brightness". Darker roasts are extremely chocolaty., and the immediate cupping comparison we had was Ethiopia Idido Misty Valley. There are apricot and coffee cherry fruited tones, over drying chocolate body. It has a unique bittersweet quality.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.7
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.6
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.7
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 4.2
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.8
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Bold intensity / Heavy body, brightness, chocolate  
add 50 50 Roast: City+ to FC+ to French. This is great coffee at a wide range of roasts!
Score (Max. 100) 87.6 Compare to: Unique flavor due to dry processing (aka natural). The darker roasts are very good in espresso!

El Salvador
Santa Rita Full Natural

$6.40add to cart $12.16add to cart $27.84add to cart $53.12add to cart $98.56add to cart


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