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Indonesia: Java


 
 
Map of the Indonesia
 
The smoking vent of Kawah-Ijen
Acid lake in the crater of Kawah-Ijen

Current Crop Comments:

Java is a wet-processed Indonesian, known for super low acidity and high body. The problem is that a low acid coffee can taste quite flat, or incomplete. It's no wonder that an average quality Java is considered a "good blender" and not a true, stand-alone single origin coffee. The Government Estate coffees are quite mild, but I usually find a lot that has a bit more going on, usually a Djampit or Blawan lot. But this year we have a unique offering: a Private Estate coffee that is more rustic, more "Indonesian" in character. Hopefully we will be able continue to offer 2 contrasting Javas in late 06 (new crop) to suit the taste of the traditionalist, or those who want a more rustic, more chocolate note in the cup.

 

Java is a clean cup for an Indonesian, a fully wet-processed coffee that has the Indonesian body and thickness in the cup without earthy or dirty flavors. Our experience is that early lots of Timor and Java can be the finest while in Central Americans you usually need to hold out for the mid-crop to late-crop samples. But there are always exceptions...

In the case of Sumatra and Sulawesi, it seems that the second to third wave of arrivals can be the best. of course, these truisms are made to be broken... that's why samples and cupping are always the key. In the past we liked the Kayumas best since it exemplifies both the thick oily body of a Java with some other nice flavors ---sometimes Java is pure body and nothing else which makes it very unbalanced as a straight roast, while still an effective blender.

Sometimes one of the others, like Blawan or Djampit (also spelled Jampit) might be better, but that's why we evaluate them all against eachother in an unbiased blind cupping. There is "Government Estate" Java from the 4 old farms (Kayumas, Blawan, Djampit, Pancoer) that date back to Dutch colonialism, and "Private Estate" Java. Government Estate is invariably preferred as they higher quality coffee although there are occasional exceptions. I usually have a strong preference when I get all the Gov't. Estate samples in and blind cup them. But all in all, the cup quality at its best is nearly identical between them when they are at their best: it is not as if Blawan at its best has a remarkably different cup character than Kayumas at its best.

All main estates are located in East Java in the vicinity of the Ijen volcanic complex. The arabica coffee plant was brought to Indonesia around 1696 and has been commercially cultivated until today. The Government body (called the PTP XXVI Plantation) grows about 85% of the coffee in East Java, close to Bali on the Ijen area. The range of altitudes suitable for coffee production is 3,000 to 6,000 feet with most growing in the plateau region at 4,500. Djampit and Blawan are the largest estates, while Pancoer is 1110 Hectares and Kayumas is 725 Hectares. Blawan is huge: 2268 Hectares. THe main cultivars are a Typica that has grown in isolation long enough to display its own character, called Java Typica. But there is a lot of catimor-derived cultivars. One is ironically called USDA, named after those who developed and endorsed it, as well as Kartika cultivar.

View of Kawah Ijen from the greater Ijen caldera.


Our Javanese Offerings: (You will need to read the reference page to interpret terms and numbers used below)


Java Monsooned Arabica
Country: Indonesia Grade: One Region: East Java Mark: Private Estate Monsooned
Processing: Wet Processed, then Monsooned Crop: April 2007 Arrival Appearance: .8 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen Varietal: Java Catimor Hybrid
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 2.6 Notes: This is unlike any coffee from the island of Java you have ever seen, because it is Monsooned, in the tradition of Monsooned Malabar from India. It starts with a private estate coffee (not one of the Government Estates such as Djampit and Blawan that lie along the road from Bondowoso to the volcano of Kawa Ijen (also spelled Kawah Ijen). But it is from the same region. It is on these volcanic slopes of the Ijen plateau that the coffee prospers from the required coffee altitudes and well-draining soil. The IJen Plateau lies in the center of a large forest reserve, which extends over much of the mountainous region to the west of Banyuwangi. After it is picked, processed in the "wet process tradition" of fermenting off the mucilage from the parchment layer surrounding the green seed, it is laid out to dry. Then, instead of dry-milling the coffee out of it's parchment, screening and sorting it, and preparing the coffee for export, the parchment coffee is bagged and sent to a special warehouse. And it sits, and sits, and then the Monsoon season comes. The warehouse is opened up to the warm weather, and (without getting the coffee wet in the rain) the coffee is allowed to absorb this moist warm air. The result is a swelling of the seed, and this pale, ghostly color. In terms of the cup, the coffee develops an odd pungency to the cup, and aggressive rustic character, heavy body, very low acidity, and unusual spice notes (clove, black pepper). This is a very distinct lot from the monsooned India Malabar / Mysore / Karnataka coffees. It has all that aggressive, bass-note, alkaloidy funk, but a unique sweetness (dark molasses) as well as pungent spice (clove, pepper). It is great at darker roasts, F+ and beyond, and as an espresso blend component. It's a bit less "pretty" than the Elephant mark India Monsooned we stock, but hey, we judge coffee by how it cups out, not by the green appearance! Pink Ink Alert: in marking the burlap bags, someone was a little overzealous and used too much pink bag marker - some came through on the coffee. For appearance sake, we have tried to remove these, but a few get through. The pinkness is food grade vegetable-based marker and does not affect taste!
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 7
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.4
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 4.7
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.2
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Bold intensity / Funky sweetness and spices, thick body, no acidity.  
add 50 50 Roast: Full City to Full City + to Vienna. Highly recommended as an espresso blend component for a rustic, exotic espresso.
Score (Max. 100) 83.9 Compare to: India Monsooned, but with unusual sweetness and spice. Remember, this coffee is a shock to the decent, respectable palate. It takes some time getting used to this flavor. Also note that the "green" looks a bit more mangey than our Elephant Monsooned, but cups out great.
This coffee is sold out but the review kep here for information purposes.- Maria

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