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Islands: Hawaii


Map of Hawaiian Islands

Skip and Rita Cowel, with Maria
Current Crop Comments:

It's 2008 and we have our first small farm Kona in, Kowali farms Typica. The cup is splendid again. We received an early lot from Greenwell that, despite not being a single-farm coffee but rather a "mill-mark" lot, was excellent. We look forward to Moki's farm (early samples were very good but needed additional preparation and resting time) and others.

Ah, Hawaii... what a nice place. They grow nuts, fruit, and coffee. The coffee is expensive. It is mild (sometimes too mild) or it can be wonderful! It can be terrible and flat. The best coffees cost a lot ...the worst cost way too much. So the goal with Hawaiians is to quit thinking that all Hawaiian coffee is good, and to realize that only a handful of coffees deserve the high price in terms of cup quality (you can easily argue that all deserve a high price in terms of the care and labor expended in producing them). And frankly, you must pay quite a bit for the truly great small-farm Kona.

In terms of the other islands, and quality coffee production, there is little positive to say at this writing. We had occasionally offered coffees from Maui, Molokai, and Kauai. But these are not grown like true small-farm Estate grade Kona coffees, nor do they taste like them. Kona isn't grown at impressive altitudes compared to other coffee origins, but on Maui and Kauai, coffee is grown at exceptionally low elevations. Also, most Kona is a special cultivar, Kona Typica, a traditional varietal that cannot be grown at low elevations.

In a historical sense, coffees like Kona are the pinnacle of a particular definition of what "good coffee" is ... clean, pleasant, mild, good aftertaste. This is a notion of "good coffee" handed down from a time when low-grade coffee was called Brazil Rio and it had a seriously foul, dirty taste (so distinctly awful it is still called Rioy in defective coffee terminology). The best coffees were considered the polar opposite; island coffees -- mild, delicate and clean. Certain Specialty Coffees we now appreciate as intense and desirable cups, Yemeni coffees, Ethiopian Harar, Dry-processed Sumatras for example, would be considered terrible in this definition. If you love these intense coffees, Kona may seem too light, too simple, too mild. The even scores in the mid-80s indicate balance and solid quality. Consider this when you cup Kona coffees.

More Kona Coffee History and Information | Kona Cupping 2004 | Kona Cupping 2005 | Kona Coffee Festival web site


Good Kona is usually Kona Typica seedstock, brought from Guatemala in the '20s. But for fun, Kowali farm has a few token Yellow Caturra.


Myself in front of massively tall Kona Typica trees at the Mountain Thunder farm


Flowering arabica blossoms
Ripe Kona Typica coffee cherry ready for hand-picking
... the opposite of a small family farm on Kona: the Kauai Estate's mechanical picking system.
Yours truly and my favorite spitoon, judging at the 2004 Kona Cupping Competition.

Our Hawaiian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below


Hawaii Kona Kowali Farm Extra Fancy
Country: U.S.A Grade: Extra Fancy Region: Hawaii, Big Island, Kona, Honaunau district Mark: Kowali Farm 
Processing: Wet-processed Crop: April 2008 arrival Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 18+ Screen Varietal: Kona Typica
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.4 Notes: Kona Coffee is grown only in the district of Kona on the west side of the Big Island of Hawaii. While coffee is also grown in other districts and on other islands, it does not develop the same flavors nor receive the same attention in the process as true small-farm Kona coffees. Kowali (which means Morning Glory in Hawaiian) is a smaller, more remote Kona farm with the right kind of altitude to produce exceptional Kona coffee. This coffee is grown by Skip and Rita Cowell on their 12 acre Kona farm, up an old-time coffee road winding along the steep hillsides of Honaunau in Southern Kona. It has been consistently acclaimed one of the top 10 coffees in Kona, and in fact received an honorable mention in the Kona Coffee Competition. "The funny thing about that," Rita told me, "is that I didn't enter the competition!" The Cowell farm is grown on carefully tended land, using no pesticides and 100% hand picked. In 1998 the farm was recognized by the Kona Soil and Water Conservation District as the co-operator of the year for continuing conservation practices. Skip is an expert in this area and lectures on Soil Conservation at mainland conferences. In terms of cup character, the coffee reflects the Kona heritage (this is 100% Kona Typica, which was brought from Guatemala in the '20s) and the altitude. This cup is a classic Kona in all respects, with a big, sweet flavor that somehow matches the immense blue-green appearance of the coffee seeds. The body is silky, and (oh it sounds like a cliche, but I must use it) ... smooth! It really is! It has the brightness that is lacking in so many low-grown Hawaiian coffees, and a floral aromatic accent to the cup. Earlier this season, I prefered an FC roast on this coffee, but with this micro-lot I found a real "sweet spot" at City+.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.5
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.2
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.6
Body - Movement (1-5) 3.6
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.6
Cupper's Correction (1-5) .5 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Classic Kona Typica character: silky body, clean, floral brightness
Roast: C+ : I like a lighter roast, ceasing the heat with no sign of 2nd crack on the horizon, right when the texture of the seed surface becomes smooth, even brown. You can also get a nice cup just a few snaps of second (FC+), but I find it takes a longer time in most roasters to achieve this level of roast. Set the roaster at a high number and roast manually.
analysis
add 50 50.0 Compare to: Sweet, juicy, classic Kona cup character, accented with bright floral notes. A luscious and attractive cup.
Score (Max. 100) 87.0

Hawaii Kona
Kowali Farm Extra Fancy

$17.00add to cart $32.30add to cart $73.95add to cart Small Lot: Limit 5 Lbs  


Hawaii Kona Purple Mountain
Country: US Grade: Fancy/Extra Fancy Region: Hawaii, Captain Cook, Kona Mark: Kona Purple Mountain Farm
Processing: Wet=Process Crop: March 2008 Arrival Appearance: 0 d/300gr, 18+ screen Varietal: Kona Typica (Guatemala-origin)
Dry Fragrance (1-5) 3.6 Notes: This is a coffee that is uniquely Kona, with that soft "island profile" cup character. There are flavors very specific to Kona coffees grown on the handful of farms that actually have the right altitude and the right soils to grow coffee that demands the premium Kona price. The biggest problem with Hawaiian island coffee is not that these few small-farm Konas command a high price, it's that a lot of poor quality coffees and non-Kona coffees are priced according to the reputation of the deserving ones. Some excellent Konas are sold directly by the mills in Kona and they can be quite good too, but they vary to a greater degree than actual farm-specific lots. Judging by the cup, Purple Mountain immediately struck me as the kind of coffee that is true small-farm Kona, where the coffee is clearly farmed for quality and not quantity.. In fact, at 2000 feet in the well-drained volcanic soils of Honaunau region of Kona, and the farm has certainly hit its stride in this their 25th year. The coffee is pesticide-free (not organic certified but all by all measures they practice organic farming), hand-picked and totally sun-dried. The farm is limited to 8 acres, and the Stiles family that own and farm it are active participants in the Kona cupping competitions. The coffee is usually milled by the well-known Tom Greenwell of Greenwell Farms, but there can still be an occasional broken bean, or partial defect bean in this coffee. Remove this before roasting for the best cup results. The cup ... The KPM has a sweet, soft aroma with a hint of jasmine floral note in some cups, and aromatic woody notes. The cup has nice body, a little creamy, and a clean sweet snap to the cup right off the bat. Initially, the dry grounds have macademia nut and vanilla touches, and these come through as in the flavor too, as the cup cools down. With the lighter roast (City) the acidity is mildly citric, floral, and the roast taste is malty-sweet. City + roast did not work for this coffee last year ( I preferred the darker roasts only)r, but this year I am enjoying the light roast treatment immensely. Purple Mountain also works great at FC+ roast - it has a nice, bittersweet roast taste at that level with no loss in body, and perhaps greater dark roast intensity than the other Konas.
Wet Aroma (1-5) 3.7
Brightness - Acidity (1-10) 8.5
Flavor - Depth (1-10) 8.6
Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) 3.3
Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) 8.6
Cupper's Correction (1-5) 0 Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Balanced, good floral aroma, nice chocolate (FC+)  flavor analysisi
add 50 50 Roast: City+ produces really nice cups with the more delicate floral notes; FC to FC+ has great chocolate character. FC+ to Vienna makes great S.O. espresso!
Score (Max. 100) 86.3 Compare to: Clean, mild, floral Kona. It's an "island profile coffee" with nice delicate floral notes. We buy only the Fancy and Extra Fancy graded lots, all of it. If you ever see someone else KPM, it's the lower grade No.1

Hawaii Kona
Purple Mountain

$16.80add to cart $31.92add to cart $73.08add to cart Small Lot: Limit 5 Lbs  


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