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| You are browsing 2005 -2006 Archive - COS to F Reviews |
| Costa Rica |
| Costa Rica Pulp Natural - La Candelilla | |||||||
| Country: | Costa Rica | Grade: | SHB | Region: | Tarrazú | Mark: | Hacienda La Candelilla |
| Processing: | Pulp Natural (Brazil Style) Process | Crop: | July 2006 Arrival | Appearance: | .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Caturra, Red Catuai, Arabigo |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.5 | Notes: La Candelilla is an estate located in La Sabana on the River Pirris, west of San Marcos de Tarrazu and 35 miles SE of San Jose. The coffee is grown at an altitude of between 1,200 and 1,900 meters (very high for Costa Rica). It's an old farm; La Candelilla was established by Victor Mora around 1900, while the mill was opened by the current owners, Rafael and Lucia Sanchez, in the summer of 2000. The owners of La Candelilla are committed to environmentally friendly policies in the cultivation and processing of the good quality coffee. And they are willing to take on some unusual processing techniques, which is what we have here. This is a "Miel" coffee (as it is called traditionally in C. America), processed using a Brazil-style method called Pulp Natural. "Miel" (meaning honey) is rare (and a bit risky) in Central America. When it was good, this coffee had great body, a husky sweet "wild-honey" cup with moderate acidity. It is great as a brewed/press coffee, it is great as straight espresso (if the brightness/acidity in the cup can be moderated by roasting technique), it is great in espresso blends, especially with top quality Brazils. To do this method, you pulp the skin off the coffee cherry, and without removing the fruity mucilage layer, sun-dry the remaining seed on raised beds, called air drying or African beds in other places. The long contact the fruit has with the parchment layer changes the character of the green coffee inside the parchment, and has this unique effect on the cup. The Candelilla estate pulped natural "Miel" is different from the El Salvador we have had. I cupped this coffee the traditional way at several degrees of roast, the darker ones intended more for my espresso machine than brewing. But the aromas from the dark roasts were so unique, with the expected carbony pungency, but also lively spice aromas, sweet and fruited. At City+ roast the coffee had the husky "miel" sweetness to it. With more roast, warming spice and chocolate emerged to back up the fruits. Darker roast Costa Ricans have never made sense to me as brewed coffee (they get too thin, too insipid) but here were darker (FC+ to light Vienna) roasts that had heft, complexity, and great body. There's a waxy, oily mouthfeel to back up the considerable complexity. I did not go to Full French on this (I never do, even my espresso isn't roasted that dark), and the real peak of flavor was about 15 seconds into 2nd crack on my drum sample roaster. In espresso, the Candelilla is a bit acidic for a straight shot (since it is a true Tarrazu coffee from high elevation), but is great as a 33% component in espresso blends. You can also roast it in a way that mutes the acidity a bit, and get good single-estate espresso shots. | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3.2 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 8.3 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.5 | ||||||
| Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) | 4.2 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 8.4 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 0 | Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium to bold intensity / at darker roasts - complexity, body, ripe fruit and chocolate | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Roast: I like Full City+, for brewed and press coffee, and a bit darker too (Light Vienna, about 15 seconds into 2nd crack). The Full City or Viena espresso is intense. | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 86.1 | Compare to: A very different coffee from Costa Ricans, great for darker roasts. You can read more about La Candelilla Estate here. | |||||
| Costa Rican "SM Select" Peaberry | |||||||
| Country: | Costa Rica | Grade: | SHB | Region: | Dota, Tarrazu | Mark: | Special Sweet Maria's Selection (see below) |
| Processing: | Wet Process | Crop: | August 2006 Arrival | Appearance: | 1 d/300gr, Peaberry screen | Varietal: | Caturra |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.3 | Notes: This is the third year we have offered a really special Peaberry lot we had prepared for us with the the help of an extremely fine cupper in Costa Rica, and an excellent mill. Can we call it a "tradition" yet? This year, we have focused on Dota, Tarrazu for our special Peaberry, and the results are a Costa RIca coffee with excellent winey fruit notes and aftertaste. Once again, I have to be a bit vague about the friends who have helped us select this lot, but when you think of extremely high quality Costa Rican coffees, the correct name will come to mind. They were willing to hand-select peaberries from lots through this excellent Tarrazu mill and assemble the lot based on overall cup profile of these coffees. The project was overseen by a true "master cupper" and this resulting coffee is more a tribute to his abilities than to anything I did. (I suppose I had the good sense to start the project!) Just like a master vintner would combine wines made from particular parts of the vineyard, he has created a really complex cup with a lot more character and intensity that many Costa Rican offerings. And there is a lot to be done in the roaster with this coffee, with fantastic results for those with the ability to slow the roast in the interstice between first and second crack. I performed a lot of roast tests on this coffee and have good results through the whole roast spectrum. FC+ and even light Vienna roast are tangy, pungent and very chocolaty. But my comments are going to be for the other end of the roast range: City roast (roasting stopped promptly at end of 1st crack). Here the coffee has a rather textured and uneven surface appearance (see link below), and I was a little surprised to see some seed-to-seed unevenness, but this is roasting for maximum cup quality ... not a beauty contest! City roast had exactly what I hoped to find in a great Dota Tarrazu coffee: concord grape sweetness, an almost tannic edge, and winey accent. I also get cherry hints, almond and hazelnut, but it is the flavors that relate to grape that I find compelling here. In some coffees, these can come from wet-processing errors, from overfermentation, or overly ripe (crimson) coffee cherry. But here it is related to the soil and climate of the Dota Tarrazu subregion. It is the "correct character" for Dota, if we can sound so proper for a moment, and in that way it is a rewarding find. | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3.3 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 8.7 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.8 | ||||||
| Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) | 3.4 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 9 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 1 | Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild to Medium intensity / Winey fruit notes, nuts | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Roast: See the notes above - I prefer it at a light City roast, stopped promptly just as 1st crack concludes. I have some pictures to demonstrate this roast | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 87.5 | Compare to: A nuanced cup, mild but compelling. These merit a +1 correction. | |||||
| Costa Rica Tarrazú - Hacienda La Minita | |||||||
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.7 | ![]() |
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| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3.7 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 8.8 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.5 | ||||||
| Body - Movement (1-5) | 2.8 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 8.6 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 0.0 | ||||||
| add 50 | 50.0 | ||||||
| Roast: City to Full City+: My preference with the La Minita is for a light City roast beacuse there are more floral notes in the cup, but FC has a great sweetness too. | |||||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 86.1 | ||||||
| Costa Rica La Candelilla "Miel" | |||||||
| Country: | Costa Rica | Grade: | SHB | Region: | Tarrazú | Mark: | Hacienda La Candelilla |
| Processing: | Pulp Natural (Brazil Style) Process | Crop: | July 2005 Arrival | Appearance: | .1 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Caturra, Red Catuai |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.2 | Notes: La Candelilla is an estate located in La Sabana on the River Pirris, west of San Marcos de Tarrazu and 35 miles SE of San Jose. The coffee is grown at an altitude of between 1,200 and 1,900 meters (very high for Costa Rica). It's an old farm; La Candelilla was established by Victor Mora around 1900, while the mill was opened by the current owners, Rafael and Lucia Sanchez, in the summer of 2000. The owners of La Candelilla are committed to environmentally friendly policies in the cultivation and processing of the good quality coffee. And they are willing to take on some unusual processing techniques, which is what we have here. This is a "Miel" coffee, processed using a Brazil-style method called Pulp Natural. "Miel" (meaning honey) is rare (and risky) in Central America. When it was good, this coffee had great body, a husky sweet "wild-honey" cup with moderate acidity. It is great as a brewed/press coffee, it is great as straight espresso (if the brightness/acidity in the cup can be moderated by roasting technique), it is great in espresso blends, especially with top quality Brazils. To do this method, you pulp the skin off the coffee cherry, and without removing the fruity mucilage layer, sun-dry the remaining seed on raised beds, called air drying or African beds in other places. The long contact the fruit has with the parchment layer changes the character of the green coffee inside the parchment, and has this unique effect on the cup. The Candelilla estate pulped natural "Miel" is different from the El Salvador we have had. I cupped this coffee the traditional way at several degrees of roast, the darker ones intended more for my espresso machine than brewing. But the aromas from the dark roasts were so unique, with the expected carbony pungency, but also lively spice aromas, sweet and fruited. At City+ roast the coffee had the husky "miel" sweetness to it. With more roast, warming spice and chocolate emerged to back up the fruits. Darker roast Costa Ricans have never made sense to me as brewed coffee (they get too thin, too insipid) but here were darker (FC+ to light Vienna) roasts that had heft, complexity, and great body. There's a waxy, oily mouthfeel to back up the considerable complexity. I did not go to Full French on this (I never do, even my espresso isn't roasted that dark), and the real peak of flavor was about 15 seconds into 2nd crack on my drum sample roaster. In espresso, the Candelilla is a bit acidic for a straight shot (since it is a true Tarrazu coffee from high elevation), but is great as a 33% component in espresso blends. You can also roast it in a way that mutes the acidity a bit, and get good single-estate espresso shots. | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3.2 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 8.3 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.5 | ||||||
| Body - Mouthfeel (1-5) | 4.4 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 8.4 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 0 | Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium to bold intensity / at darker roasts - complexity, body, ripe fruit and chocolate | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Roast: I like Full City+, for brewed and press coffee, and a bit darker too (Light Vienna, about 15 seconds into 2nd crack). The Full City espresso is intense and maybe too bright. | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 86 | Compare to: A very different coffee from Costa Ricans, great for darker roasts. You can read more about La Candelilla Estate here. | |||||
| Costa Rica La Minita Tarrazú | |||||||
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.3 | ![]() |
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| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3.3 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 8.7 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.3 | ||||||
| Body - Movement (1-5) | 3.0 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 8.5 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 0.0 | ||||||
| add 50 | 50.0 | ||||||
| Roast: City to Full City+: My preference with the La Minita is for a light City roast early in the season (which is now ...April-October, roughly) and a bit darker from November through the new crop arrival, which is usually in April. I just think the early shipments are best roasted to accentuate the high notes in the cup, and later it is better to roast for the medium range. I also really like to blend 2 roasts of La Minita, one at City and one at Full City - delicious and a bit more complex! | |||||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 85.1 | ||||||
| Costa Rican Organic - La Amistad | |||||||
| Country: | Costa Rica | Grade: | SHB | Region: | La Amistad | Mark: | Hacienda La Amistad |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | March 05 New Crop | Appearance: | 0 d/300gr, 16/17scr | Varietal: | Caturra |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.0 | Notes: Hacienda La Amistad is located out there in coffee farm "lonesome town," isolated from the large well-known Costa Rica growing regions (Tarrazu, Tres Rios, Dota, Wwest Valley, etc.) near the in the La Amistad nature preserve. (Click here for a map -red dot is farm.) The La Amistad farm is located above 1200 meters and is next to the border between Costa Rica and Panama, in fact I have walked into the La Amistad nature preserve from Finca Hartmann in the Panama region of Volcan. This farm has been a family farm for generations and the family has kept much of it as natural forest. It is now a "National Private Protected Area" called Las Tablas, which forbids people from hunting, extracting wood or doing any damage to the area. The reserve is located next to the National Park, La Amistad, one of the few National Parks between two countries and is the largest reserve area in Costa Rica. It is also the location of the new La Amistad Biosphere. Coffee is the main crop of the farm, but it also is largely self-sufficient, with some of the other activities contributing to the quality of the coffee; there are organic vegetable gardens on the estate, growing jalapeno and sweet peppers to make their own organic salsa. The farm has plenty of native shade trees, and in addition to these, Erythrina and leguminous trees were added for a supply of Nitrogen to the coffee system. The coffee from The streams from the rain forest supply the water for washing the coffee as well as the power source for the farm, due to it's own hydro-electrical plant. The fertilizers for the coffee plants come from composting the waste from the animals, the cherry pulp, leaves, and ashes. The coffee is dried on cement patios as weather conditions permit and is then sent for milling, which is done to our specific and very strict standards. Now, I admit, I have been under-whelmed by the La Amistad in recent years. It' is so mild it falls flat on it's face; no muscle, no scructure. But I always cup everything despite my own opinions and proclaimations ... and what I find here is an early lot that is clean, sweet, balanced, with really nice nut and milk chocolate roast tastes. To me this means 2 things: It is a great breakfast coffee and it's a crowd-pleaser; you'll like it, family will like it, grandma will like it. And it brews verrrrry nice in a vacuum brewer too. |
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| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3.3 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 8.0 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.3 | ||||||
| Body - Movement (1-5) | 3.4 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 8.3 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 0.0 | Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Great balance, milk chocolate roast taste (City+ Roast) | |||||
| add 50 | 50.0 | Roast: City+: see notes above. I don't think this is a great Costa for dark roasts, but it does do a nice single-Estate espresso at Full City+ | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 84.3 | Compare to: Balanced, crowd-pleasing, approachable Central American coffee; the "classic" clean cup profile. | |||||
| Dominican Republic |
See the 2001-2002 Review Archive
| Ecuador |
See the 2003-2004 Archive
| Ethiopia |