Green Coffee : South America : Brazil |
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View Our Current Brazilian Coffee Offerings |
Upcoming Crop CommentsWe have two solid Brazil coffees up from the Carmo de Minas region. We will be adding a natural from the same region in the next month or so. |
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About Brazilian Coffee
| Brazil is a coffee giant . As Frank Sinatra sang, "They grow an awful lot of coffee in Brazil". It's the largest producer of low grade arabica coffee, and a lot of Conilon robusta too. Brazil: there is some in almost every espresso you drink. In fact, some espresso is 90% Brazil. And there is Brazil in most canned coffee and big roasters' blends. | ![]() |
But things are changing in Brazil. There's the big push on behalf of Brazilian coffee growing associations to re-create the image of Brazilian as exquisite and distinctive Specialty-level coffee. And some of it is true Specialty coffee, but the majority is still common, low-grade, low-grown arabica. There just isn't the extreme distinction from cup to cup that distinguishes one regional coffee from another. Attention to good farming and processing techniques has helped, but the coffee is grown at lower altitudes than most Specialty coffee, in non-volcanic soils, in non-forested areas that are sometimes originally grassland (a reason why the "shade-grown issue" really doesn't apply much to Brazil ---the coffee farming areas had little shade to begin with.) | |
Am I saying Brazilian coffee is bad --heck no! I love these high-quality Brazilian coffees, and you should try it as a Full City or even Vienna roast: it's great! And nothing touches a really good Dry-processed or Pulped-Natural Brazil as a base in Espresso blends. They produce more crema and body, adding sweetness and providing a great backdrop for the feature coffees. Brazil can be nutty, sweet, low-acid, and develop exceptional bittersweet and chocolate roast tastes. The caveat is, Brazils are not dense coffee seeds: they are grown at lower altitudes than Central American coffees. Hence the very dark roasts of Brazils pick up ashy, bittering flavors. For espresso, you can roast Brazils lighter, separately, or keep the entire blend at a Vienna roast or lighter: Northern Italian Espresso re: Illy's "Normale." Note that there are 3 methods of processing Brazil coffees of interest to us; Natural Dry- Process, Pulped Natural, and Semi-Washed. They produce different types of cups. The Natural has great body, chocolate, possibly fruity notes ... and it risks being earthier and more rustic in the cup. The Pulped Natural is when the coffee cherry skin is removed and the parchment, with a lot of the mucilage attached, is sun dried on patio or raised drying bed. This coffee cups like the fully Naturals but is a bit cleaner in the cup. The Semi-Washed uses a demucilage machine to remove the skin and some or all of the mucilage. So the Semi-Washed ranges in character from being identical to Pulped Natural to being similar to a Wet-processed coffee (clean cup, uniform, less body, less chocolate, a bit brighter). I like good Naturals- they have more intensity, produce more crema, but I have to cup them rigorously to watch for defective cup character. On the other end of things, really clean Semi-Washed, where a lot of the mucilage is removed, do not have Brazil character to me. Yes, these coffees score higher in the numbers, and they are now totally dominating the Cup of Excellence competition. But if you want a cleaner, brighter cup, the standard is set in other origins, not Brazil. Go buy a good Central American coffee. I want "origin character" from a coffee. I want intensity. I don't believe in a generic, universal "excellent" coffee to which all coffee origins should be compared. It's a bias I have, but for me it keeps coffees distinct, and preserves the uniqueness of the cup, and repects the coffee culture expressing itself through origin flavors. | Sul
Sul de Minas region - not a barren flatland |
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Most quality Brazil I have found comes from the Sul de Minas, Mogiana, Cerrado and Matas de Minas regions, more specifically, from micro-climates within those regions. Cerrado region is, apparently, not a name many Brazilians recognize ... at last not those I have spoken with. Cerrado is a savana-like area, dry and flat, in Minas Gerais state. They produce a lot of coffee, and there are some unblended single farm lots that are good. Two microregions in Cerrado are of special interest: Chapadao de Ferro and Serra de Salita. People ask me about Santos coffee - Santos is a port, not a producing region. Coffee labeled Santos is pooled from market-grade lots and the lowest common denominator expresses itself as the primary cup character. Also, there is a lot of confusion online, perpetrated by coffee merchants (mostly innocent and unknowing) between region names, farms names, and cooperative names. For example, Monte Carmelo is a town in Cerrado, not a farm, and Cooxupe is a massive cooperative. The coffee you are actually getting in a bag of this is as unknown as buying Colombian Excelso. Sometimes, it used to be a decent cup ... but no more. It's a but random, since it does not rely on any solid, trackable relationship to a farm. In fact, a quick survey of green coffee sellers online reveals to me that not a single one currently offers a farm-specific coffee (well, except us ... all ours are from single farms). I am sorry of this sounds a little self-righteous, but the distinction here is very real, and expresses itself in very different levels of ongoing cup quality. | View my travelogues of Brazil Cerrado Cupping Competition 2004 and 2005 and trips through the Sul de Minas, Mogiana, and Matas de Minas coffee growing regions. You might also be intersted to read the our backissue newsletter Tiny Joy Jan-Feb '03: Brazil-O-Rama: excellent choices in Brazilian Coffee. Some notes about Brazil and espresso blends: As many people know, Brazil is a traditional "base" coffee for espresso blends in the Italian style, and they can be excellent as unblended, straight espresso too. The trick is that Brazils prefer a lower initial roast temperature and can turn quite ashy tasting when roasted too dark. My personal preference is that Brazils for espresso are rested quite a while after roasting - in fact I had a straight pulped natural I roasted to a light Vienna for espresso, and I kept testing the cup because 2 days after roasting it was too lively, nippy - almost like a baking soda effect on your tongue. After 18 days it became one of the deepest. heavy bodied espresso I ever had! I am not saying coffee should be rested that long after roasting (especially other methods like French Press, Drip etc, which fade after as little as 7 days!), but if you don't have a good initial experience with a Brazil espresso, don't toss it - try it after a week, or even two. As far as the type of Brazil, Illy is said to use 100% pulped natural and semi-washed. I much prefer a really good Natural dry-process - more crema, more chocolate, more body, and some fruit note. -Tom |
![]() Coffee all day, and even "Coffee Night" - a nightclub in smalltown Minas Gerais |
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Our Unroasted Brazilian Coffee Offerings
Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below.Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.
This coffee is from Carmo de Minas region, adjacent to the large farm we have bought many times, that of Nazareth Dias Pereira. The coffee is grown at 1100 meters, and this lot is a mix of cultivars with the majority being Catuai, Mundo Novo and Bourbon. While there are other areas in Brazil that produce some fine coffees in respect to the classic Brazil flavor profile, I feel we have found consistently good lots in the Carmo zone. Here there is a bit more altitude than most of the Cerrado coffees, and certainly more than Mogiana farms. The cultivars are generally the same as the other zones, but I feel the processing, while still on a large scale, has a good quality focus. And I really like how these coffees perform in espresso.
The dry fragrance has raw cocoa nibs scent, dark honey, with semi-sweet chocolate dominating the darker roast levels, and a hint of savory miso. The wet aroma sweetens up considerably and casts an image of the coffee as caramelly, with vanilla and maple in the lighter roast, with more pungent, roasty bittersweets at Full City level and darker. This is one of the cleaner and sweeter Brazils we have cupped from the higher ranks of Specialty preparation this year. Light roasts have a transparent honey sweetness, hazelnut-toasted almond roast tone, and a pleasantly tea aspect in the finish (green tea/ assam). The darker roast levels we did for espresso shots also cup really well, and make a nice brewed cup. Full City has toasted graham cracker with rich bittersweet chocolate, dark caramelized sugar sweetness, and a tangy, somewhat carbony finish. It still retains much of the sweetness of the lighter roast level though, as the cup cools. This coffee is ideal for either a SO espresso or a very clean blend base under accent coffees of your choice (although I would pick Ethiopias!)
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This coffee is from Carmo de Minas region, Fazenda São Benedito, adjacent to the large farm we have bought many times, that of Nazareth Dias Pereira. The coffee is grown at 1130 meters, and this lot is a mix of cultivars with the majority being Yellow Bourbon. It is processed using the Pulp Natural method. While there are other areas in Brazil that produce some fine coffees in respect to the classic Brazil flavor profile, I feel we have found consistently good lots in the Carmo zone. Here there is a bit more altitude than most of the Cerrado coffees, and certainly more than Mogiana farms. The cultivars are generally the same as the other zones, but I feel the processing, while still on a large scale, has a good quality focus. And I really like how these coffees perform in espresso.
The dry fragrance has cocoa powder, dark honey, with semi-sweet chocolate dominating the darker roast levels, and a hint of savory red miso. The wet aroma has more sweetness, with hazelnut, honey and a hint of dried banana in the light roast. Full City level has malted milk chocolate and less obvious sweetness but a very balanced roast tone. The cup flavors fall right in line with the aromatics. More developed roast levels have that classic chocolate roast taste, with some sweet caramel nougat notes and a hint of fruit peeking out. This roast level, Full City to Full City+, works really well for espresso and the low acidity levels produce a greatly balanced shot, or work as a great backdrop/base coffee for an espresso blend. Lighter roast levels have less thickness to the mouthfeel, but have a nice nut-honey character. There are suggestions of peach and pineapple as the cup cools.
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At the foot of the Serra da Mantiqueira, Fazenda Kaquend has a 200-year-old tradition of coffee production. The farm is owned by José Wagner Ribeiro Junqueira and his wife Margarida, and their sons Kleber, Ralph and Herbert. Kaquend has won too many awards to list, including the #1 spot in the Cup of Excellence. This microlot is a pulp-natural process (cereja decascada) from this 45 acre farm with an altitude of 1100 to 1450 meters, and produced by his son Kleber. They have Yellow Bourbon, Acaiá, Yellow Catuaí, and Catucaí varietals planted, but this particular lot is Yellow Bourbon. Keep an eye on this coffee when roasting. The beans will start to fracture a ways before any audible snap. I think I pulled our City+ roast a little past the 1 minute mark from the beginning of the first audible snaps.
This is definitely one of the better Brazil's we've seen this year. The dry grounds smell of malted caramel, with a grain sweetness like caraway or pumpernickel. Dark roasts show toasted sugar, molasses, and orange peel zest. Hot water boosts the sweetness in the aromatics with lightly caramelized sugars, dark fruits, chocolate nut, and vanilla bean. If you take this coffee closer to a Full City roast, you may find that the wet grounds have a "brawny" aroma - almost on the fatty side of things, but replete with deep sweetness. The cup is very nice and with a surprisingly clear finish. Sweet grains are definitely front and center in the cup with toasted sesame seeds, malted barley, and a note of gen ma cha tea. The coffee has a silky mouthfeel, full body, and with a pleasing touch of raw honey. Dark roasts have chocolate roast tones, burnt sugar, and a smell of pecan pie. This coffee has a clean finish, with a note of orange pekoe tea. It's nice to have a Brazil with such complexity, and the profile transfers nicely as a single origin espresso too.
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This is a special micro-lot that scored as the top natural in a cupping competition. Fazenda Monte Verde has won awards for both pulped natural and dry-processed coffees, including first place for this dry-process lot in the Cocarive Competition. The farm is the property of José Roberto Canato and his family. The farm is 600 hectares with 140 dedicated to coffee, and much of the farm is maintained in a natural state, with many freshwater springs supplying water for the crops and the natural environment as well. Fazenda Monte Verde is situated at 1260 meters, and they have a variety of coffee cultivars; this lot is Yellow Bourbon. This is one of the nicest Brazil dry-processed coffees I have tasted in a long time.
This dry process Brazilian coffee is laden with dark fruited notes and with an intense sweetness all the way through to the finish. The ground coffee has Concord grape and melon, along with a note of cola nut. There are complex sugars as well, and a scent of dark caramel prevails in deeper roasts. Adding hot water brings up raw sugar in the aroma and a fruitiness that I'd liken to pie filling. Pie fruits like wild blueberry, rhubarb, and plum come to mind - so sweet and saturated. The cup is very juicy, and with notes of black cherry and grape, turning more to stone fruit as the cup cools. There's a tartness to the acidity that is like huckleberries, or even coffee cherry skin. Dark roasts have a waxy chocolate mouthfeel, and with notes of fig, Monnuka raisin, and tamarind. This coffee finishes sweet, and the weight of the liquor allows this quality to hang around in the mouth long after the sip. This coffee's profile is loaded with fruit complexity, and along with the developed sweetness and mouthfeel, will make a great single origin espresso as well.
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2005-2006 | 2004 -2003 | 2001-2002 | Pre-2000 Tom's Sample Cupping Log | Moisture Content Readings This page is authored
by Thompson Owen and Sweet Maria's Coffee, Inc. and is not to be
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