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South America: Brazil


Brazil is a coffee giant . As Frank Sinatra sang, "They grow an awful lot of coffee in Brazil". It's the largest producer of low grade arabica coffee, and a lot of Conilon robusta too. Brazil: there is some in almost every espresso you drink. In fact, some espresso is 90% Brazil. And there is Brazil in most canned coffee and big roasters' blends.

Map of Brasil
But things are changing in Brazil. There's the big push on behalf of Brazilian coffee growing associations to re-create the image of Brazilian as exquisite and distinctive Specialty-level coffee. And some of it is true Specialty coffee, but the majority is still common, low-grade, low-grown arabica. There just isn't the extreme distinction from cup to cup that distinguishes one regional coffee from another. Attention to good farming and processing techniques has helped, but the coffee is grown at lower altitudes than most Specialty coffee, in non-volcanic soils, in non-forested areas that are sometimes originally grassland (a reason why the "shade-grown issue" really doesn't apply much to Brazil ---the coffee farming areas had little shade to begin with.)
Am I saying Brazilian coffee is bad --heck no! I love these high-quality Brazilian coffees, and you should try it as a Full City or even Vienna roast: it's great! And nothing touches a really good Dry-processed or Pulped-Natural Brazil as a base in Espresso blends. They produce more crema and body, adding sweetness and providing a great backdrop for the feature coffees. Brazil can be nutty, sweet, low-acid, and develop exceptional bittersweet and chocolate roast tastes. The caveat is, Brazils are not dense coffee seeds: they are grown at lower altitudes than Central American coffees. Hence the very dark roasts of Brazils pick up ashy, bittering flavors. For espresso, you can roast Brazils lighter, separately, or keep the entire blend at a Vienna roast or lighter: Northern Italian Espresso re: Illy's "Normale." Note that there are 3 methods of processing Brazil coffees of interest to us; Natural Dry- Process, Pulped Natural, and Semi-Washed. They produce different types of cups. The Natural has great body, chocolate, possibly fruity notes ... and it risks being earthier and more rustic in the cup. The Pulped Natural is when the coffee cherry skin is removed and the parchment, with a lot of the mucilage attached, is sun dried on patio or raised drying bed. This coffee cups like the fully Naturals but is a bit cleaner in the cup. The Semi-Washed uses a demucilage machine to remove the skin and some or all of the mucilage. So the Semi-Washed ranges in character from being identical to Pulped Natural to being similar to a Wet-processed coffee (clean cup, uniform, less body, less chocolate, a bit brighter). I like good Naturals- they have more intensity, produce more crema, but I have to cup them rigorously to watch for defective cup character. On the other end of things, really clean Semi-Washed, where a lot of the mucilage is removed, do not have Brazil character to me. Yes, these coffees score higher in the numbers, and they are now totally dominating the Cup of Excellence competition. But if you want a cleaner, brighter cup, the standard is set in other origins, not Brazil. Go buy a good Central American coffee. I want "origin character" from a coffee. I want intensity. I don't believe in a generic, universal "excellent" coffee to which all coffee origins should be compared. It's a bias I have, but for me it keeps coffees distinct, and preserves the uniqueness of the cup, and repects the coffee culture expressing itself through origin flavors.
Sul de Minas region - not a barren flatland


Naturals (brown) and pulped naturals (tan) on the patio.

Cupping competition in Cerrado. R to L, Ensei Neto, me, Christian Wolthers, Rob Stephen


The mechanical harvester used in flatland coffee areas. It actually does a good job of picking ripe cherry - see my 2004 comments.

A natural un-trimmed grove at Daterra's Boa Vista farm (a Cup of Excellence lot we offered 2 years ago).

"They grow and awful lot of coffee in Brasil" as Frank Sinatra sang - and I was trying to climb to the top of it to find out exactly how much.
Most quality Brazil I have found comes from the Sul de Minas, Mogiana, Cerrado and Matas de Minas regions, more specifically, from micro-climates within those regions. Cerrado region is, apparently, not a name many Brazilians recognize ... at last not those I have spoken with. Cerrado is a savana-like area, dry and flat, in Minas Gerais state. They produce a lot of coffee, and there are some unblended single farm lots that are good. Two microregions in Cerrado are of special interest: Chapadao de Ferro and Serra de Salita. People ask me about Santos coffee - Santos is a port, not a producing region. Coffee labeled Santos is pooled from market-grade lots and the lowest common denominator expresses itself as the primary cup character. Also, there is a lot of confusion online, perpetrated by coffee merchants (mostly innocent and unknowing) between region names, farms names, and cooperative names. For example, Monte Carmelo is a town in Cerrado, not a farm, and Cooxupe is a massive cooperative. The coffee you are actually getting in a bag of this is as unknown as buying Colombian Excelso. Sometimes, it used to be a decent cup ... but no more. It's a but random, since it does not rely on any solid, trackable relationship to a farm. In fact, a quick survey of green coffee sellers online reveals to me that not a single one currently offers a farm-specific coffee (well, except us ... all ours are from single farms). I am sorry of this sounds a little self-righteous, but the distinction here is very real, and expresses itself in very different levels of ongoing cup quality.

View my travelogues of Brazil Cerrado Cupping Competition 2004 and 2005 and trips through the Sul de Minas, Mogiana, and Matas de Minas coffee growing regions. You might also be intersted to read the our backissue newsletter Tiny Joy Jan-Feb '03: Brazil-O-Rama: excellent choices in Brazilian Coffee.

Some notes about Brazil and espresso blends: As many people know, Brazil is a traditional "base" coffee for espresso blends in the Italian style, and they can be excellent as unblended, straight espresso too. The trick is that Brazils prefer a lower initial roast temperature and not to be over-roasted. They can turn quite ashy tasting when roasted too dark. My personal preference is that Brazils for espresso are rested quite a while after roasting - in fact I had a straight pulped natural I roasted to a light Vienna for espresso, and I kept testing the cup because 2 days after roasting it was too lively, nippy - almost like a baking soda effect on your tongue. After 18 days it became one of the deepest. heavy bodied espresso I ever had! I am not saying coffee should be rested that long after roasting (especially other methods like French Press, Drip etc, which fade after as little as 7 days!), but if you don't have a good initial experience with a Brazil espresso, don't toss it - try it after a week, or even two. As far as the type of Brazil, Illy is said to use 100% pulped natural and semi-washed. I much prefer a really good Natural dry-process - more crema, more chocolate, more body, and some fruit note. -Tom


Coffee all day, and even "Coffee Night"
- a nightclub in smalltown Minas Gerais

Current Crop Comments:

We have three Brazil offerings now as we wait for the rest of new crop Brazils to come in. The first is a rather un-BRazil-like Brazil, Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza ("FAF"), a coffee plantation since 1850 that has been owned and run by the Barretto family since the early 1900s. This coffee is a result of a partnership with neighboring farms, a small lot from two families of Joao Hamilton and Celso Santos (they are brother-in-laws) that has an unusual, outstanding cup character. The Dry Process Mogiana is a return of a coffee we have had in the past, and is a good choice for SO espresso or as a basis or espresso blends. The cup flavors are classic Brazil, nutty in lighter roasts and more chocolate with darker roasts. The Cachoeira Canario Yellow Bourbon on the other hand is a coffee to keep light roasted, not for espresso, extremely floral.

Our Brazilian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.


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Brazil Cerrado DP Fazenda Aurea
Fazenda Aurea is in a region called Serra do Salitre, a high plain in Cerrado Miniero, Minas Gerais state. It's the same area where we bought the competition-winning natural dry process Fazenda Rio Paraná of Ricardo Torezan a couple years back. At 1200 meters, the Serra do Salitre has better altitude than most of Cerrado proper, which averages 800-900 meters for coffee production. It's a coffee that is widely available - it's no microlot here. But when there is a better lot, it can do everything I want a Brazil to do, and at a price that is comfortable. In fact, many Brazils should cost less than other origins, because these coffees form Cerrado are mechanically harvested, and prepared for export en masse. Done well, mechanical harvesting is brilliant. But how many areas have the flat topography for this technique: very few. We like this coffee for it's consistency and as a blend base (although it is respectable as a straight roast as well). It works very well for espresso. It roasts well, evenly, especially for a dry process. Larger farms like Aurea use mechanical harvesters, something I used to have a bias against but seeing the results of this on my last trip to Brazil, it changed my mind. It's not like you can use machines to pick coffee anywhere - Brazil, and the flat plain of Cerrado in particular, is one of the few coffee growing regions it makes sense.The even roast hints at good ripe cherry selection. The reason for receiving coffee in the form of ripe cherry is to ensure uniform processing, and to avoid the defects that usually end up on the patios in typical dry-processing. This is a balanced, not overly fruity flavor profile. The dry fragrance in lighter roasts is distinctly nutty, malty, slightly caramelly, whereas Full City+ is more chocolate-laced. Wet aromatics and cup flavors can be described in much the same way: Solid body, balance, low acidity, creamy mouthfeel and flavor. This is no Micro Lot, it's a big farm that produces a lot of this coffee. It's a simple coffee too, straightforward. But we felt this lot was clean, had great body, a clean flavor profile, uniform roast and cup character, and more sweetness than anything else on the table (including some fancier and much more expensive coffees). There you have it.



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Brazil Cerrado DP Fazenda Aurea
$4.85$9.21$21.10$40.25$74.69
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A mechanical harvester engulfing a tree at Fazenda Aurea.
Country: Brazil
Grade: Estate
Region: Serra do Salitre, Minas Gerais, Cerrado Mineiro
Mark: Fazenda Aurea
Processing: Dry-Processed
Crop: November 2009 Arrival
Appearance: .6 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Mundo Novo, Catuai
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Balance, body, low acidity, nut-to-chocolate roast taste
Roast: City+ to Full City+ is recommended; very nutty in the light roast and chocolate in the dark roasts
Compare to: Clean dry-process Brazil with good body, and nice as espresso.
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Brazil Daterra Farms - Sweet Yellow
Daterra Farms is a remarkable presence in the Brazilian coffee world ...and the entire coffee world, actually. Here we find one of the most innovative cultivators of coffee, where each step is scrutinized, rethought, reinvented. It is more of a coffee research institute than a farm! Well, that's not true ... like all farms the coffee tree predominates, but here we have each plot marked off in terms of what "experiment" is currently being conducted to improve cup quality. When I visited there were plots of huge 20 foot tall "native" coffee trees, then pure Catuai cultivar areas, Icatu, Mundo Novo and other cultivars I have never encountered. And then there were the old traditional cultivars, Typica and Bourbon. We cupped a range of their coffees and, instead of selecting Yellow Bourbon as we have in the past, we found the best cup in their Sweet Yellow blend. Sweet Yellow? It's a blend of Yellow cultivars, Bourbon and Icatu, great for brewed coffee and espresso! Like our previous Daterra lots, this is a vacuum packed coffee that underwent Penta system preparation as the Reserve. What's Penta? It's central component is Daterra's system to sort coffee under black florescent lights, with added defect removal steps, store in special warehouses optimized for coffee, locking in the moisture content in the green coffee with vacuum packaging, boxing and shipping. Perhaps it is the future of green coffee, primarily because coffee must be transported through humid zones in the origin country and (especially if the container of traditional burlap bags gets waylaid at port) can result in the coffee taking on moisture; it's a bad thing. This coffee is versatile, for espresso single origin espresso, espresso blends, or brewed coffee. The dry fragrance has caramel/molasses and warm spice, caraway, a sweet-savory scent (umami). The wet aroma is like honey on toasted bread, and a bit of anise on the break. The brewed cup is very balanced and mild, with soft acidity, caramel and malty grain sweetness, and highly viscous body. There's an interesting nutty note, somewhat like toasted sunflower seed. The espresso has balanced chocolate bittersweet, cocoa powder, creamy body, and (at FC roast) a nice bright, pointed accent that is neither citric nor fruited. It has a malty tone, and is perfect as a base to use with an accent coffee, an Ethiopia for example.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Brazil Daterra Farms - Sweet Yellow
$6.50$12.35$28.28$53.95$100.10
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Gustave talks soil when I last visited Daterra
Country: Brazil
Grade: Penta Grade System, Vacuum Pac
Region: Minas Gerais State, Cerrado Region
Mark: Daterra Farm
Processing: Pulp Natural Process
Crop: May 2009 Arrival (Vac Pack)
Appearance: .0 d/300gr, 16-18 screen
Varietal: Yellow Bourbon, Yellow Icatu
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Sweet and mild, simple, viscous body, versatile.
Roast: City+ is most intense for brewed coffee. FC for espresso is what we prefer, producing a bright, sweet cup. We don't roast this into 2nd crack for drip or espresso.
Compare to: A super balanced, sweet, simple cup, mild acidity, excellent body. We have some more Daterra info here.
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Brazil Fazenda Vista Alegre Natural Dry
Fazenda Vista Alegre (FVA) is located near the town of Jaboticatubas, 60 Km from Belo Horizonte, the capital of the state of Minas Gerais. It's an almost legendary farm, known for it's unique approach to coffee cultivation in the dry Cerrado coffee belt of Brazil. And their premium coffee is the FVA Natural Dry coffee, a process where the coffee cherry is mostly dried on the tree before being picked. This long contact time with the plant system that has sustained it, means the cherry develops the sugars in it's fruit layer to the highest degree possible. It might explain why the FVA Natural Dry has a cup that is both elegant and intense. FVA is also unique in the combination of overhead and drip irrigation they use to ensure plant health, and to manipulate the cherry development, especially in the final stages of fruit formation. It also allows them to deliver plant nutrition directly where and when it is needed, and conserve water from evaporation. The Natural Dry is "finished" on a drying patio after picking, and then "conditioned" in indoor wood silos with clay roofs for 4-6 months. The intent is to produce a coffee with a deep, rounded flavor profile, weighty but soft on the palate. It is a very unique flavor profile! The dry fragrance has malty chocolate scents, a general spicy and savory character, with a hint of tamari sauce. The wet aroma has a warm spice, yeasty, malty-wheat character, rather like Saison beer. It has a buttery sweetness too, and a note of hay. It certainly bears out it's reputation as an exotic flavor profile. The cup has very low acidity, but it makes it no less unusual or intense, The mouthfeel is thick and weighty, there is essence of peach, stewed peach being prepared for pie, really. The weighty quality and a favorable aged character, a little oak, with the peach note gives the impression of brandy. It has a deep-toned sweetness, unlike other coffees, in a more food-like way; a bready sweetness. It's an odd combination of elegant flavors and rustic ones, there is an impression of denisity, thickness and rounded flavors, a beefy cup profile overall, with warming notes, and even a pleasant suggestion of leather. Perhaps that is why I think of Yemeni coffees, but it is so different than those wild lots, too. One thing for sure, FVA is a unique tasting experience, and for those who like low acidity coffees, Indonesias and such, and a hint of the rustic and complex, this might be the one for you!

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Brazil Fazenda Vista Alegre Natural Dry
$6.95$13.21$30.23$57.69$107.03
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Country: Brazil
Grade: Estate Grade
Region: Jaboticatubas, Minas Gerais
Mark: FVA Natural Dry
Processing: Tree-Dry Natural
Crop: November 2009 Arrival (Vac Pack)
Appearance: 1.8 d/300gr, 16-18 screen
Varietal: Mundo Novo, Catuai
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild-Medium intensity / A complex and unique flavor profile
Roast: City+ to FC for drip type coffee brews, FC to FC+ for espresso extraction.
Compare to: I am reminded of Fazenda Barreiro from Pocos de Caldas, the Brazil FAF microlot from recent times, and there are some hints of Yemeni coffee here.
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Brazil Organic Nossa Senhora de Fatima
Fazenda Nossa Senhora de Fatima is near the town of Perdizes, Minas Gerais, owned by Ricardo and Gisele Resende. Nossa Senhora de Fatima was named after the virgin Fatima, and also after a religious city in Portugal where Ricardo’s mother was born. It's one of a handful of Brazil coffees we have vacuum packed at origin, before export. The farm is located in the 'Triangulo Mineiro' in the Cerrado region of Minas Gerais and sits at an elevation of 950 meters above sea level with 1500 mm rainfall. The farm is 100% organic, without agrochemical inputs. Environmental preservation is a top priority at Fazenda Nossa Senhora de Fatima. The farm is dedicated to replanting native tress and caring for the indigenous fauna and flora, as well as protecting the native species. Livestock is also reared at the farm and includes chickens, cows and pigs. The whole farm covers an area of 395 hectares of which 235 hectares are put over to coffee. Nossa Senhora de Fatima farm is 100% organic. The farm has its own fertilizer plant where Ricardo makes organic fertilizer, composed of animal manure and plant composts, that is the only fertilizer to touch the coffee plants. To combat bugs and coffee plant plagues, Ricardo uses pharmaceutical plants like the Neen and the Embo trees from India. We offer this coffee as a dry-process lot, although they do peel the skin when it is harvested, making it a pulp natural. But everything about this coffee in terms of the cup screams "dry-process"; intense chocolate, fruit and body! The dry fragrance is clearly fruited, but clean (as opposed to fermenty fruit). There are berry syrup notes and baked peach pie, which a sweet chocolate backdrop. Adding water, the wet aromatic has a herbal balsam shampoo quality, plus the baked fruit accents found in the dry grounds. It has an imposing sweetness, and a dark malted note as well. The cup has raisin, rustic chocolate and baked peaches, with a thick, viscous mouthfeel. There are traces of toasted coconut, and macadamia nut as well. In the finish, a slight tobacco and mint flavor come out. It is definitely true the the character of Brazil dry-process coffees, like the Poco Fundo lots we have had in the past but with a more definite, sweeter fruit quality. Oddly, I keep thinking about the Yemeni coffee flavor profile as I cup this.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Brazil Organic Nossa Senhora de Fatima
$6.80$12.92$29.58$56.44$104.72
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Nossa Senhora de Fatima, a town where the farmer Ricardo's mother came from.
Country: Brazil
Grade: 2/3s SS FC
Region: Perdizes, Minas Gerais
Mark: Fazenda Nossa Senhora de Fatima, Organic Cert
Processing: Dry Process
Crop: January 2009 Arrival, Vac Pack
Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 16-18 screen
Varietal: Icatu, Mundo Novo
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Bold intensity / Sweet fruits, rustic chocolate, viscous body.
Roast: City+ to Full City+. This lot benefits from a real "medium" roast; too light and it lacks the body and dimension; too dark and it becomes unsweet and ashy.
Compare to: Fruited, natural dry-process Brazil coffees, with great body.
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