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South America: Brazil


Brazil is a coffee giant . As Frank Sinatra sang, "They grow an awful lot of coffee in Brazil". It's the largest producer of low grade arabica coffee, and a lot of Conilon robusta too. Brazil: there is some in almost every espresso you drink. In fact, some espresso is 90% Brazil. And there is Brazil in most canned coffee and big roasters' blends.

Map of Brasil
But things are changing in Brazil. There's the big push on behalf of Brazilian coffee growing associations to re-create the image of Brazilian as exquisite and distinctive Specialty-level coffee. And some of it is true Specialty coffee, but the majority is still common, low-grade, low-grown arabica. There just isn't the extreme distinction from cup to cup that distinguishes one regional coffee from another. Attention to good farming and processing techniques has helped, but the coffee is grown at lower altitudes than most Specialty coffee, in non-volcanic soils, in non-forested areas that are sometimes originally grassland (a reason why the "shade-grown issue" really doesn't apply much to Brazil ---the coffee farming areas had little shade to begin with.)
Am I saying Brazilian coffee is bad --heck no! I love these high-quality Brazilian coffees, and you should try it as a Full City or even Vienna roast: it's great! And nothing touches a really good Dry-processed or Pulped-Natural Brazil as a base in Espresso blends. They produce more crema and body, adding sweetness and providing a great backdrop for the feature coffees. Brazil can be nutty, sweet, low-acid, and develop exceptional bittersweet and chocolate roast tastes. The caveat is, Brazils are not dense coffee seeds: they are grown at lower altitudes than Central American coffees. Hence the very dark roasts of Brazils pick up ashy, bittering flavors. For espresso, you can roast Brazils lighter, separately, or keep the entire blend at a Vienna roast or lighter: Northern Italian Espresso re: Illy's "Normale." Note that there are 3 methods of processing Brazil coffees of interest to us; Natural Dry- Process, Pulped Natural, and Semi-Washed. They produce different types of cups. The Natural has great body, chocolate, possibly fruity notes ... and it risks being earthier and more rustic in the cup. The Pulped Natural is when the coffee cherry skin is removed and the parchment, with a lot of the mucilage attached, is sun dried on patio or raised drying bed. This coffee cups like the fully Naturals but is a bit cleaner in the cup. The Semi-Washed uses a demucilage machine to remove the skin and some or all of the mucilage. So the Semi-Washed ranges in character from being identical to Pulped Natural to being similar to a Wet-processed coffee (clean cup, uniform, less body, less chocolate, a bit brighter). I like good Naturals- they have more intensity, produce more crema, but I have to cup them rigorously to watch for defective cup character. On the other end of things, really clean Semi-Washed, where a lot of the mucilage is removed, do not have Brazil character to me. Yes, these coffees score higher in the numbers, and they are now totally dominating the Cup of Excellence competition. But if you want a cleaner, brighter cup, the standard is set in other origins, not Brazil. Go buy a good Central American coffee. I want "origin character" from a coffee. I want intensity. I don't believe in a generic, universal "excellent" coffee to which all coffee origins should be compared. It's a bias I have, but for me it keeps coffees distinct, and preserves the uniqueness of the cup, and repects the coffee culture expressing itself through origin flavors.
Sul de Minas region - not a barren flatland


Naturals (brown) and pulped naturals (tan) on the patio.

Cupping competition in Cerrado. R to L, Ensei Neto, me, Christian Wolthers, Rob Stephen


The mechanical harvester used in flatland coffee areas. It actually does a good job of picking ripe cherry - see my 2004 comments.

A natural un-trimmed grove at Daterra's Boa Vista farm (a Cup of Excellence lot we offered 2 years ago).

"They grow and awful lot of coffee in Brasil" as Frank Sinatra sang - and I was trying to climb to the top of it to find out exactly how much.
Most quality Brazil I have found comes from the Sul de Minas, Mogiana, Cerrado and Matas de Minas regions, more specifically, from micro-climates within those regions. Cerrado region is, apparently, not a name many Brazilians recognize ... at last not those I have spoken with. Cerrado is a savana-like area, dry and flat, in Minas Gerais state. They produce a lot of coffee, and there are some unblended single farm lots that are good. Two microregions in Cerrado are of special interest: Chapadao de Ferro and Serra de Salita. People ask me about Santos coffee - Santos is a port, not a producing region. Coffee labeled Santos is pooled from market-grade lots and the lowest common denominator expresses itself as the primary cup character. Also, there is a lot of confusion online, perpetrated by coffee merchants (mostly innocent and unknowing) between region names, farms names, and cooperative names. For example, Monte Carmelo is a town in Cerrado, not a farm, and Cooxupe is a massive cooperative. The coffee you are actually getting in a bag of this is as unknown as buying Colombian Excelso. Sometimes, it used to be a decent cup ... but no more. It's a but random, since it does not rely on any solid, trackable relationship to a farm. In fact, a quick survey of green coffee sellers online reveals to me that not a single one currently offers a farm-specific coffee (well, except us ... all ours are from single farms). I am sorry of this sounds a little self-righteous, but the distinction here is very real, and expresses itself in very different levels of ongoing cup quality.

View my travelogues of Brazil Cerrado Cupping Competition 2004 and 2005 and trips through the Sul de Minas, Mogiana, and Matas de Minas coffee growing regions. You might also be intersted to read the our backissue newsletter Tiny Joy Jan-Feb '03: Brazil-O-Rama: excellent choices in Brazilian Coffee.

Some notes about Brazil and espresso blends: As many people know, Brazil is a traditional "base" coffee for espresso blends in the Italian style, and they can be excellent as unblended, straight espresso too. The trick is that Brazils prefer a lower initial roast temperature and not to be over-roasted. They can turn quite ashy tasting when roasted too dark. My personal preference is that Brazils for espresso are rested quite a while after roasting - in fact I had a straight pulped natural I roasted to a light Vienna for espresso, and I kept testing the cup because 2 days after roasting it was too lively, nippy - almost like a baking soda effect on your tongue. After 18 days it became one of the deepest. heavy bodied espresso I ever had! I am not saying coffee should be rested that long after roasting (especially other methods like French Press, Drip etc, which fade after as little as 7 days!), but if you don't have a good initial experience with a Brazil espresso, don't toss it - try it after a week, or even two. As far as the type of Brazil, Illy is said to use 100% pulped natural and semi-washed. I much prefer a really good Natural dry-process - more crema, more chocolate, more body, and some fruit note. -Tom


Coffee all day, and even "Coffee Night"
- a nightclub in smalltown Minas Gerais

Current Crop Comments:

We have manu Brazil offerings now - 2 out of 3 are dry processed Brazils which shows where my preference lies lately in Brazils. The Sweet Yellow is a pulped natural coffee from Daterra, a sweet and mild coffee, again with good body and works well as espresso. The Fazenda Vista Alegre Natural Dry reminds me of Yemeni coffee somehow - dark, rustic and complex. The Moreinha Formosa Raisin Coffee is a unique coffee that is dried on the tree, a process that can only occur in a location with a prolonged dry spell. The ripe coffee stay on the tree and at least in theory gains additional sweetness as it dries. Rather intense, the opposite of the Sweet Yellow really, and closer to a dry process Ethiopian coffee.

Our Brazilian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.


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Brazil Cachoeira Yellow Canario Bourbon
This is a special micro-lot from Fazenda Cachoeira. The farm has been in the Carvalho Dias family since 1890. They recently celebrated their 107th crop, and recently their Organic coffees have achieved some recognition in the BSCA Brazil Late Harvest Competition, among others. Fazenda Cachoeira (it means waterfall, which is why there is more than one Cachoeira farm) is located in São Paolo State 3 miles from the border with Minas Gerais State. It enjoys the typical characteristics of the mountainous Sul de Minas regions that have made it the "heartland" of Brasilian coffee for many decades. Gabriel de Carvalho Dias, the owner, is also one of Brazil’s leading agronomists, an example of how it takes a very educated approach to tackle the challenges of organic coffee production. With a total area of 417 hectares, Fazenda Cachoeira has a coffee area of 165 hectares, along with other crops, ranch, and nature preserve. On this farm everything is done manually since its topography does not allow any kind of mechanization as you might find in the flat Cerrado savanna terrain.

Most of the offerings from Cachoeira are Yellow Bourbon cultivar, now widely available, and the cup quality varies from lot to lot. I have been very selective with our offerings, and this year the screen-dried Yellow Bourbon was not up to par. But this sample was totally different: a local mutation of Bourbon called Yellow Canario, available in limited amounts. This is also special because the green coffee is vacuum-packaged in 7.5 kilo bricks in Brazil, and imported in boxes, not jute bags. As you know, we are doing this with many of our top coffees, when it is possible, and the results have been positive from most origins. This Yellow Canario Bourbon is so much more dynamic than the other Cachoeira lots, bright, lively. The dry fragrance has sweet peach and floral elements, nice cocoa powder and dry-roasted hazelnut character at C+ roast. Add water and herbal-floral notes emerge with a touch of jasmine flower. There's a sweetness in the aroma you find in few Brazils. While my lightest roasts had a lemony tone, I much preferred City+ roast for its balance. There are sweet jasmine floral hints peeking out from behind a cocoa chocolate flavor, velvety mouthfeel, light body and a very elegant, sweet finish. Hazelnut and lightly malted chocolate dominate the roast flavor at City + roast, complimenting the lightly fruited flavors and jasmine accent. As it cools golden raisin sweetness and a lemongrass tea quality come out. For those cuppers in the coffee trade who avoid Brazils, this is a coffee that could change their minds, and the type of Brazil that would do very well in the Cup of Excellence. It has a premium price, but if it went through CoE it would be exponentially more.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Brazil Cachoeira Yellow Canario Bourbon
$6.90$13.11$30.02$57.27Limit 10 pounds
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Drying on covered raised beds, from my last trip.
Country: Brazil
Grade: 2/3s SS FC
Region: Sao Paolo, Near Minas Gerais Border
Mark: Fazenda Cachoeira da Grama, Vac packed
Processing: Pulp Natural Process
Crop: January 2010 Arrival, Vac Pack
Appearance: .2 d/300gr, 16-18 screen
Varietal: 100% Yellow Canario Bourbon
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild intensity / Elegant, clean fruits, floral, sweet finish
Roast: City+. This lot benefits from a real "medium" roast; too light and it lacks the velvety body and dimension; too dark and the floral notes are eclipsed.
Compare to: Top tier, competition quality Brazils, mild, elegant, nuanced. Those looking for Dry-processed flavors and intensity might look elsewhere - this is a sweet, refined coffee.
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Brazil Joao de Campos Yellow Catuai
Fazenda Joao de Campos is in a region called Alto Paranaíba near Serra do Salitre. It is a high plain in Cerrado Miniero, Minas Gerais state. At 1200 meters, the Serra do Salitre has better altitude than most of Cerrado proper, which averages 800-900 meters for coffee production. This is from a larger farm, no Micro Lot coffee this one. But it is much smaller than the neighboring Fazenda Aurea. Brazil coffee like this should be less expensive than other origins, because these coffees from Cerrado are mechanically harvested, and prepared for export en masse. Done well, mechanical harvesting is brilliant. But how many areas have the flat topography for this technique? Very few. We like this coffee for it's consistency and as a blend base (although it is respectable as a straight roast as well). It works very well for espresso. I used to have a bias against mechanical picking, but seeing the results of this on my last trip to Brazil, it changed my mind. It's not like you can use machines to pick coffee anywhere - Brazil, and the flat plain of Cerrado in particular, is one of the few coffee growing regions it makes sense. The even roast hints at good ripe cherry selection. The reason for receiving coffee in the form of ripe cherry is to ensure uniform processing, and to avoid the defects that usually end up on the patios in typical dry-processing. This is a balanced, not overly fruity flavor profile. It can be roasted lighter (City+) for straight brewed coffee, but I like it best at FC to FC+ for brewed use, blend, and espresso. The dry fragrance has a lot of roast sweetness and scent: nut, caramel, milk chocolate, and a backdrop of fruit. At City roast the aromas are malty sweet and lightly fruited, with a hazelnut note, but at FC+ they are much more aggressive and potent, with bittersweet chocolate tangy scents. Full City has the best cup, a nice balance between caramel and chocolate roast notes. FC+ is more pungent, spicy, dark chocolate alkaloids dominating the flavor and finish. Of course, this coffee is a natural for espresso all through the roast range, and would blend very well with both brighter coffees, or intense fruity dry-process types from Ethiopia. It's a very versatile lot.



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Brazil Joao de Campos Yellow Catuai
$4.80$9.12$20.88$39.84$73.92
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Mechanical harvester for coffee at Fazenda Joao de Campos
Country: Brazil
Grade: Estate
Region: Alto Paranaíba, Minas Gerais, Cerrado Mineiro
Mark: Fazenda Joao de Campos
Processing: Pulp Natural Process
Crop: February 2010 Arrival
Appearance: .4 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Yellow Catuai
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Balance, body, low acidity, nut-to-chocolate roast taste
Roast: City+ to Full City+ is recommended; very nutty in the light roast and chocolate in the dark roasts
Compare to: Clean dry-process Brazil with good body, and nice as espresso.
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