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South America: Colombia


Coffee research facilities at Cenicafe in Colombia

 
 
 
 

Yours truly, cupping coffee in Manizales, Colombia
 
 

Colombia is a diverse group of coffee origins, with Northern and Southern regions staggered in the crop cycle.

Colombian coffee is highly marketed and widely available in the US. They have been largely successful at equating the name Colombian Coffee with "Good" Coffee. This is half-true. Colombian can be very balanced, with good body, brightness (acidity) and flavor. But much of it is a bit boring, and most of it that you find in Supermarket bins etc. is simply a decent clean cup with almost no aftertaste (if its fresh from the roaster, which is not likely).

So, is there good Colombian coffee? Absolutely yes. It just takes work to find it. Good Colombian is rarely sold simply as Supremo or Excelso, a name that designates the size of the beans, the screen size. Colombian coffee that has more "cup character" can be a farm specific coffee, or pooled from particular regions and will have the regional name identifying it. Sometimes a generic Colombian just happens to cup really nice, but that's rare, and it requires cupping each lot to find the special one.

In the past, Colombians were all sold based on bean size (Excelso, Supremo) unlike other Central American and South American coffees which are graded mostly on altitude. Grading by screen size doesn't make sense because a larger bean does not mean better cup quality. In fact, the presence of diverse bean sizes can (but not necessarily) result in better cup quality. Since we rate everything by the cup quality and all coffees are judged "blind", bean size is largely irrelevant, and doesn't enter into how I chose the following Colombians from the 30 to 40 samples I cup each year.

All that is changing in the specialty coffee end of the market; we have come "light years" ahead in the last 5 years, offering micro-regional selections from small-holder coffee producing groups, and abandoning the senseless size-based grading system. We now have access to many more small, farm-specific lots. Part of the current crop quality is this: we can wait for the good coffee, not just go out and buy Colombia when we need it. That's the whole way we operate anyway; we wait for the peak of the harvest. And if you cup a lot of these micro-regional lots, in particular the Tolima, the South Huilas, the Cauca coffees and Narino, there is always a point where all factors converge, and the cup becomes exemplary.

I have been to Colombia now many times - check out the travelogue section of the Coffee Library to see the photos from those trips.

At the Coffee Federations experimental farm

 
Current Crop Comments:
We have two late 2009 microlots listed and more will be coming in the next month or two. These are lots that can be as small as a few hundred pounds! Or some a thousand pounds. I visited a number of the farmers from whom we buy coffee in late October 2009 and was in general really pleased with the picking and processing that I saw. Be sure to check out the travelogue. Right now we have the Tolima blend I am called "Dos Payasos de Tolima" - two clowns of Tolima. The coffee is of mild-medium intensity with a lot going on, apple, spices, orange tea. The Humberto Diaz, from his Finca El Junin, is very sweet, with complex fruitiness. This coffee is one that is almost single-handedly produced by Sr. Diaz and as such is a great representative of what a small holder farm can produce.
 

A note on Colombian selections: Coffee from Colombia comes in all grades to suit different markets: there are lower grades for commercial and food service applications, generic medium grades, Specialty grades, and at highest end of the spectrum there are specific appellations with designated varietal and farm or micro-region. The later has only become available in the last two years or so (before that many fine coffees were pooled with not-so-fine lots to form large exportable shipments). This means that the marginally Specialty grades, pooled lots designated only by a general region like Huila, Medellin, Antioquia, Cauca, etc. no longer represent the best of Colombian coffee. These lots can be okay, but recent samples have showed a tendency toward the aqua-pulp rapid milling process. The use of non-traditional varietals like Variedad Colombian is also a trend towards higher production detrimental to cup quality. Our response is to carry the best Colombians we can find, traditional varietals, farm and micro-regional lots, special selections. I'll certainly cup the other lots too and if there's something good we'll get it. But I think you won't see much pooled Colombians on our list anymore (well, never say never!)... Tom
The Primary Growing Regions of Colombia:
These are the regions our samples come from, and from these we chose the ones we feel are best in any given season ...
Popayan, Cauca
Huila, San Augustin
Antioquia, Medellin
Quindio, Armenia
Santander, Bucaramanga
Magdelena,
Sierra Nevada
Nariņo

Our Colombian Coffee Offerings: Please refer to our Reference Page for definitions of terms and cupping numbers used below. Check out the Sweet Maria's Coffee Home Roasting Forum for more conversation about home roasting this and other coffees.


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Colombia "Dos Payasos de Tolima"
This is the third micro-lot "edition" from our small-farm selections in the Tolima department of Colombia. Tolima is one of my favorite coffee origins in Colombia, and the Tolima microlot offerings we evaluate through our Colombia Farm Gate program are some of my highest rated. Most of the lots are from Planadas and Rioblanco areas, a remote zone that is difficult to access. Part of the issue is that Tolima is one of the last active FARC areas where the conflict between the government and the rebels continue, and sadly is is always the land-beholden farmers who suffer. Still, we work through local Cooperative to access their fantastic coffees, and have designated our specially crafted blend as "Dos Payasos de Tolima" as a riff on the first lot we called Los Pijaos de Tolima. As you might guess, payaso means clown. Not to say there is any nonsense to this lot; it's fantastic! The aromatics here are very complex and sweet (which I attribute partly to the fact this we pay extra to have this coffee vacuum-packed at origin). It's also one of Mingas program coffees, meaning we "built" this coffee by cupping many small individual farm lots, some as small as 40 or 50 kilos, then assembled the Dos Payasos based on cup profile, aiming for brightness balanced by complex deeper-toned flavors. The dry fragrance has floral hints, some red apple and flame grape. Adding the hot water, the fruit has a winey ripe aspect, a hint of Kenya-type acidity. (It reminds me of some Kenya Kirinyaga lots we have had in the past). There is a nice caramel-butterscotch whiff on the break. The lighter roasts have golden raisin fruit sweetness and apple-like brightness. The finish has a pleasant tart, drying quality, a bit like 'apple skins' in the finish. There's dashes of spiciness too; cinnamon stick, clove. Caramel and spice linger as the cup cools, as well as orange spice tea. The body isn't heavy, but substantial to balance out the brighter aspects of the cup. The lightest City roast was my favorite, with that golden raisin sweetness provoking a near mouth-watering response. Darker roasts cool well though, and the sweetness and fruit peek out from behind bittering roast flavors as the Full City roast cup cools.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Colombia "Dos Payasos de Tolima"
$6.30$11.97$27.41$52.29$97.02
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Dos Payasos de Tolima: a wacky name, a wacky image, a great coffee.
Country: Colombia
Grade: Estate
Region: Rioblanco and Planadas, Tolima
Mark: Las Mingas MicroLot
Processing: Wet-processed
Crop: January 2010 Arrival, Vac-Pack
Appearance: .0 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen
Varietal: Caturra, Typica
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Mild-Medium intensity / Apple, spices, orange tea, medium-light body
Roast:
Compare to: The dimension we anticipate in Tolima coffees, our favorite Colombia origin at this time.
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Colombia Finca Buenavista -Carlos Imbachi Microlot
In our farm-direct Colombia program, when a coffee is between 86 and 88, it goes into our 3-Star blend, and above 88 it becomes a farm-specific lot. That's what we have here, a lot that distinguished itself in the weekly cuppings of samples sent to me from Colombia, and one we felt must be offered separate from all others. Earlier we had a lot of Carlos Imbachi that won First Place at the SCAA Coffee of the Year at the 2009 Conference in April. To give you some perspective, the famous Panama Esmeralda Especial Gesha came in 2nd to our 290 Lb Carlos Imbachi lot! It speaks volumes about the quality potesxzsntial of Colombia coffees, once you stop blending the great ones with the lesser ones. And for this, the farm and the exporter, Virmax, deserve the credit. All I did was cup it and recognize the obvious quality. After we had such a great experience with his small lot, we focused on cupping his later harvest lots, and put together this selection of weekly-picking separations to form our new (and larger than 290 Lbs) Carlos Imbachi Microlot. Sr. Imbachi's farm is in the San Augustin area of Huila at 1753 meters altitude. The dry fragrance of this coffee is cake-like, with a heady sweetness, confectionary, with honey, plum, raisin and floral nectar notes. Add hot water and there is a more succinct sweetness that comes forward, jammy and dense, with guayaba tropical fruit essences and a cane sugar sweetness. In the cup it is juicy and bright, the lighter roasts having a slight hazelnut roast tone overlayed with strawberry, peach, tamarind, and plum notes in the finish. It is so sweet, so well-graced with clean fruit flavors and floral suggestions. Looking at the roasts I did, the light City roast looked impossibly under-done, but cupped wonderfully, my top pick for sure. So listen to first crack and stop the roast when it has concluded; it will look variegated in color and creased but cup beautifully. I found it passes quickly from 1st crack to 2nd crack, so pay attention. Really, the coffee was exceptional through the entire roast spectrum from C to FC+, but the light roasts are where all it's special character was in full bloom. If you end up with a darker roasts, expect "chocolate-covered raisin" character, nice but not so exotic as the light roast flavor profile. Yet as the dark roast cools, this coffee distinguishes itself from the ordinary, with rose floral notes, stone fruit and plum peaking out from behind the bittersweet chocolates.

This coffee is part of our direct trade Farm Gate pricing transparency program.

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Colombia Finca Buenavista -Carlos Imbachi Microlot
$7.10$13.49$30.89Limit 5 pounds
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Carlos Imbachi on the farm, a very humble man, with great dedication to coffee quality.
Country: Colombia
Grade: Farm-Specific MicroLot
Region: San Augustin, Huila Department
Mark: Las Mingas Program, Virmax
Processing: Wet-processed
Crop: January 2010 Arrival, Vac Pack
Appearance: .0 d/300gr, 15-18 Screen
Varietal: 100% Caturra
Intensity/Prime Attribute: Medium intensity / Wonderfully scented with clean fruit notes, very sweet
Roast: See the notes in the review: City to City+ is highly recommended. I don't feel this is a coffee that should get into 2nd crack at all.
Compare to: A sweet, fruited cup that hits on all cylinders. It's a competition type coffee ... oh wait, it already won a competition! If you bright, fruited SO espresso is how you roll, try this. I loved the shots I produced with the FC roasts.
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Archived Reviews

To view reviews for out of stock coffees, visit our Colombia Coffee Archives.


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